“You
shouldn’t bother the dog’s food while he’s eating,” is a traditional piece of
dog advice that is based on the assumption that dogs protect or guard those
things (“resources”) that they value and don’t want to lose. And food
certainly fits that description. But is that advice valid?
What Is Resource Guarding?
Resource
guarding refers to a dog displaying behavior (growling, snapping, etc.)
intended to convince other dogs or humans to stay away from a particular
treasure or “resource.” The resource can be food, treats, toys, a place
(a bed or favorite chair), or occasionally a person. Basically, a
resource is anything that is considered by the dog to be of high value.
Resource
guarding is normal dog behavior. Dogs have evolved as opportunistic feeders,
and it’s natural for them to protect what they consider to be “theirs” from
potential takers. The displays of growling and related body language are
the dog’s way of saying, “Back off! This is mine, and I don’t intend to give it
up.” In most cases, the dogs are simply communicating, and one dog will back
down. If, however, the dogs fight over resources or if a more timid dog
feels stressed, you should separate the dogs around desired objects, like food,
bones, and toys. The easiest thing to do is to put them in different rooms, so
they can each enjoy their prize. Also, remove potentially guardable items when
the dogs are together.
That
said, resource guarding can be a serious problem if a dog threatens to bite his
human family when they try to take something away. Dogs must be willing
to give up things they would rather keep, like that plastic bag or turkey
bone. Resource guarding is a major cause of aggression toward humans,
particularly toward children. Children, especially small children, carry
around toys and food where the dog can reach them. Children are less likely to
understand the importance of respecting the dog’s possessions and are likely to
grab for them. Finally, their height means that bites to children often occur
on the face or upper body, resulting in more serious injuries.
What Does Resource Guarding Look Like?
Resource
guarding can occur over a variety of objects. Some dogs only guard what
they are actually holding (a toy or bone, for example) or when they’re
eating. Other dogs guard toys or treats in their general vicinity, even
when they don’t seem all that interested in them. A few dogs guard space,
like the couch or bed. Dogs may guard resources from other dogs, humans, or
both. Resource guarding can also vary in severity, from the dog that will
simply move the object away to the dog that snarls, growls, snaps, or bites if
approached. The guarding behavior can sometimes escalate through these
levels as a particular dog perceives an increasing threat. Lower level
behaviors (e.g., snarling or growling) are warnings. Don’t punish your
dog for these warnings, or he may stop giving warnings altogether and move
directly to a more aggressive behavior, like biting.
What Can I Do?
Whether
you have a puppy, a new dog that doesn’t yet resource guard, or an occasional,
but not dangerous, resource guarder, you want your dog to learn not to guard
his food and to willingly give up an item. Practice these exercises
frequently before you really need them.
- Approach your dog’s food
bowl while he is eating and, without bending down, drop a delicious treat
(something like a piece of chicken or beef) into his bowl. This will
teach him that humans approaching his food are not a threat, but rather
something good. You can also hand-feed your dog to set up a strong
association with people as providers of good things. This is especially
helpful when you first bring a dog into your home.
- Choose a word or phrase like
“drop it” or “give” to use as a release cue when you want your dog to give
you whatever he has. Get an empty paper towel roll, a toy, or other
item that will interest your dog, without being high value. You will
also need some really yummy treats (diced cheese, hot dogs, whatever your
dog loves). While holding onto one end, offer your dog the cardboard roll
or other item, moving it around to make it more exciting until he takes
it. Continue to hold onto it, so he can’t grab it and run.
Now, stick a treat right under your dog’s nose. Your dog will likely
spit out the item. When he does that, give him the treat.
- After this is working
consistently, add your verbal cue, “drop it” or “give” (in a happy voice),
as he sniffs the treat. After your dog has finished the treat,
entice him with the original item again. Once you are confident that the
item interests him, add the cue “take it”. Then, use your cue of “drop it”
and repeat the trade. Your dog is learning that when he lets go, he
not only gets a treat, he gets back the item he originally gave up.
Note: When not practicing, move the item out of sight, so that your
dog doesn’t keep picking it up, in order to get a treat.
When
working on these exchanges, make sure you maintain a non-threatening position
like sitting or kneeling and angled a little to the side. Leaning over or
walking directly toward a dog is often a trigger for resource guarding.
If your dog becomes still and stiff or raises a lip at any time, don’t
continue.
Remember,
the key is to trade for an item of greater value. And the dog gets to
decide what’s valuable. Generally, though, that item will be an especially
tasty (and if necessary, smelly) treat. Using food also has the advantage of
allowing you to practice this exercise a number of times in quick succession.
If there
is a specific item that your dog guards (a chew toy or favorite tennis ball),
that item is “off limits” until your dog learns to willingly share his
treasures. Put the item out of sight. When your dog learns to “drop”
items of lesser value, then…and only then…will he be allowed to first practice
with his “special” item, and then have access to it on a regular basis. The
same principle applies to places. If your dog guards the couch, use a baby gate
or tether, so that your dog doesn’t have access to the couch. If it’s your bed,
your dog should not be allowed in the bedroom.
If your
dog seems to guard you when another person approaches, he is probably guarding
himself, not you. Your dog doesn’t feel safe, but is comfortable enough in your
presence to stand up to the perceived threat. Small dogs, in particular, tend
to act out when their person is holding them. Don’t carry your small dog around
everywhere; let him explore and gain some confidence. If your dog is reactive
around people, stay at a distance where your dog isn’t reacting and give your
dog one tasty treat after another (the size of a pea) until the person is gone.
This will help your dog develop a positive association with people.
What If My Dog is Already a Serious Resource
Guarder?!!!
If your
dog aggressively guards resources, especially if he has made you feel unsafe or
if you have children in the home, you should consult a positive reinforcement
trainer or behaviorist from our referral list to help with that behavior.
While resource guarding is not uncommon, it can become a serious issue that is
potentially dangerous for both dogs and people. Many bites, especially to
small children, occur as a result of resource guarding. Keep your dog and your
family safe by looking for professional help to deal with this issue.
Key Points to Remember
- Resource guarding is a
natural behavior for dogs, but it must be managed so that it doesn’t
become an aggressive behavior.
- Prevent inappropriate
behaviors from developing by rewarding desirable ones. Take the
opportunity to create positive associations between people and resources.
- Good management will keep
your dog from getting things he shouldn’t. Close doors, put the
trash in the closet, and keep the laundry basket out of reach.
- Resist chasing your
dog. The chase is a reward and teaches your dog that theft brings
attention…and play. Get in the habit of trading for something
better.
- When teaching your dog to
“drop it” or “give”, start with boring items and gradually work up to more
valuable ones.
- Make sure that your “trade”
is more valuable that what you are asking your dog to give up. Your
dog gets to define “valuable.”
- Never hit, scare, or
threaten your dog in order to get something from him, even if he snarls or
growls. He is telling you to “back off,” and that’s a warning
message you want him to be able to express. Dogs that are punished
for growling go straight to biting.
- If you have a multi-dog
household and one or more dogs are resource guarders, feed them or give
them bones or toys in separate rooms.
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This
material is not intended to be a substitute for professional help when dealing
with dogs with intense or potentially dangerous behavior issues. Consider consulting a
positive reinforcement trainer or animal behaviorist for situations that you
feel are dangerous or that you don’t feel equipped to handle. A list of
recommended trainers and behaviorists can be found on our website, www.yourdogsfriend.info.
